Home Inspection of Puget Sound - Homeowners Newsletter

Energy Savings and Safety Tips for Holiday Lighting

2010-11-25T10:41:00.000-08:00

Holiday lighting is a wonderful tradition, and these tips will help to keep you and your family safe.

Use care not to overload your circuits. Do not run too many strings together, the amount of lights on string that can safely be connected differs for each type of light. Read and follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Carefully inspect each string for frayed insulation, loose connections or
broken bulbs. Never plug in a string that has bulbs broken open, as the interior filament is a electrocution hazard. Only use lights outdoors that are approved for outdoor use.

Use timers to control your lighting to save more energy. This chart dramatically contrasts the old style bulbs with modern LED technology lighting using as little as 1.15% of the energy of the old style lighting.

Another consideration is heat. Never install old style bulbs on a real tree. Think of string of 100, 10 watt lights, that is 1000 watts light and heat. You would never put a 1000 watt heater on a tree for obvious reasons, and these strings are nearly the equivalent of doing just that.

Be careful when hanging lights. Loose wiring is more easily damaged by movement from trees and wind. Never use standard staples, as they can cut into insulation and cause a short or shock hazard. Best to use insulated clips to hang lighting.

GFCI protected outlets are recommended for all outdoor electrical use. They dramatically reduce the risk of electrical shocks and electrocutions.

Use only UL approved exterior grade power cords outside with proper ground (3 prong connector). Never run cords through doorways, windows where they could get damaged or be a trip hazard.
Keep all plugs and connectors off the ground, away from puddles and snow.

If you blow fuses or trip breakers, reduce the load on that circuit. Never change the amperage if a blown fuse, if a 15 amp fuse blows, reduce the load on that circuit and replace with the exact same type 15 amp fuse. The wiring in the home is designed to only carry the current of the fuse. That blown fuse likely prevented the wiring from overheating and possible fire.

If you see flickering lights, sparks, warm switches, plugs, or outlets, or dimming lights, there is a potential dangerous problem that could cause an electrical fire.

As always use extreme care on ladders, make sure they have a good footing and are steady. Never touch your exterior power drop! Any contact with a poorly insulated drop will kill you, an aluminum ladder is an excellent electrical conductor.

Read more about holiday lighting safety here from Washington State University Extension Energy Program and the Northwest Energy Efficiency Alliance.

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Keeping it Cool, Tips to Make Your Home More Confortable - by Seattle's Home Inspection Team

2009-07-02T08:47:00.000-07:00

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With the warmer weather, we are looking to ways to keep our homes cool. Here are some tips to keep your home comfortable.

Window Coverings
When the temperatures are expected to be high, consider keeping shades closed throughout the day. It is amazing the difference in heat gain when the sun is kept off the windows. I have blinds, thermal shades and exterior sun screens that we use on the hottest days to keep the solar gain to a minimum.

Fans
I have a digital indoor and outdoor thermometer that I use to determine when the outside temperature has dropped below the inside temperature. When the temperature outside has dropped in the evening, I have a large box fan that is tightly fitted in a back bedroom window that exhausts the hot interior air outside. This causes negative air pressure in the house, and when you open other windows in the home, you will get a nice cool breeze coming in.

Fan Controller
I have built a simple thermostat to control this fan, (See a diagram and instructions here) so when the house temperature drops below 67 or so, the fan turns off automatically. Don't forget to remove the fan, close up the windows and shades in the morning to keep the air as cool as possible during the day.

Wall Air Conditioners
We have also installed ceiling fans to keep the air moving, this helps make it much more comfortable, especially in bedrooms. In my home, I have small room air conditioners that keep an individual room cool. this is especially nice on very hot evenings when you can't cool the house with a fan because the outside air temperature it too high. If you keep the door closed these window units are a great choice.

Home Air Conditioners
If you have a central air conditioner, there are a few items you should consider to keep it running at peak efficiency.

The outside component of your unit is called the compressor. It houses the pump and the blower that cool the compressed gas that is then pumped into the home to cool the air inside. We see these units covered with landscaping debris (grass, weeds, bushes etc.) all the time.

When this happens the airflow is restricted and it has to work harder to cool your home. Always keep these units clear from obstructions, so they can easily cool the coils. Keep lawn clippings from blowing on them when trimming the grass. Sometimes dryer vents are located too close to AC units, plugging them with lint.

Read your manual on the best way to clean the unit. Some may be hosed off, ALWAYS TURN OFF THE POWER when cleaning them. Others require more complex cleaning. A dirty AC will waste a lot of energy. When in doubt have a professional clean it regularly, usually at least once a year.

Attic Fans
These will help keep he attic spaces cool. Ideally the attic is the same temperature as the outside air. In the summer, I routinely enter attics that are as high at 145 degrees! Ventilation and insulation are both critical to keep this heat away from your living space. If your attic has less then 12 inches of insulation consider having more added. This will pay for itself in heating in winter and keep you much more comfortable in summer.

Roofing
When re-roofing a home, consider using light colored coverings. They will reduce the heat from the sun. We always recommend silver coating un-coated torch down roofs. It will extend their life and help cool your home.

Thermostats
Use automatic thermostats with timers to control your cooling system. Be sure your air filters are clean, and your ductwork is tight, well insulated and free from leaks. We see leaking ductwork every day!

Landscaping
We recommend that you plant trees that will drop their leaves in winter on the south and west side of homes. This way you have shade in summer and the sun can naturally heat the home in winter. Remember to keep all plants trimmed away from the building.

"To increase the efficiency of your air-conditioning unit by up to 10 percent, plant trees and shrubs to shade the outside unit; place them at least 18 inches away so they don't block the vents on the compressor. For more tips on ways to use landscaping to increase the energy efficiency of your home, see the DOE's landscaping advice." Consumer Reports

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Water problems and solutions under your home

2009-06-03T23:15:00.000-07:00

The most common source of water under homes is ineffective downspouts and missing splashblocks or drains.
Inspect them regularly for failing mounts, crushed downspouts, and proper drainage.

Water in crawlspaces or basements can cause major damage. Many homes have water problems and the solutions can range significantly in cost to remedy. You always should start with the simple and cheapest solutions.

Gutters and Downspouts

Gutter mounts failing and the downspout is disconnected.
Keep downspout drains clear.

Everyone should walk around their homes in the worst weather, at least a few times a year and look to see how the gutters and downspouts are working. Moss, leaves or other debris can easily clog downspouts and gutters will overflow, possibly causing damage to roofs, fascia and soffits as well as flooding areas below grade.

Keep then cleaned and maintained, make sure all downspouts are discharging away from the building. If the water puddles next to the foundation, it is likely to end up in the basement of crawlspace. Make sure mounts are tight and there are no low spots along gutter runs.

Clean them at least once a year, usually after the leaves have dropped in fall. Some homes need more frequent cleaning.

Grading

If there is a negative grade (soil sloped to the home) water may puddle next to the foundation. Where possible, always have soil graded away from the structure. Consider repairing any concrete walks or patios that may slope to the home

Be careful with landscaping edging and planter boxes, as they often will cause water to puddle. Never allow downspouts to discharge in low areas like planters, but instead carry water several feet away from the building.

French Drains

This option is very effective at capturing water and draining it away before it can work its way under the home.

This is one example of a french drain

They can be expensive, so it is advised that you check the gutters, downspouts, splashblocks/drains and grading before opting for a french drainage system

Drains and Sump Pumps

In some homes where the water table is high and drainage is poor, you have to deal with the excess water with drains or pumps. Drains are useful when there is a suitable location to hookup the pipes to. Often times you are facing a situation where there is on location low enough to have gravity do the job, and in these cases a pump is the best answer.

We recommend that you consider a backup pump in situations where its failure can cause significant damage or flooding. If there is a power failure or the pump breaks down, the backup can be very important.

One type of a back up pump is powered by the water supply to the home. These have the advantage of mechanically simple, relatively inexpensive and can do the job until you repair the primary pump or the power is restored. This type of pump does waste water, so they are not to be used as a primary pump, only a backup.

See a video on installing a water powered sump pump here.

When the power goes out, you will be glad you have one!

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Laundry Safety

2009-04-23T22:35:00.000-07:00

We use laundry equipment everyday with out a lot of thought to the potential hazards they may pose. According the the Consumer Product Safety Commission washers and dryers are responsible for more then $230,000,000 worth of property damage a year in the US alone. Most of the common problems at the root of these statistics are easy to address.

Power Cords

We found this dryer power cord on an inspection, notice it does not have a proper strain relief connector.

As with all power cords be careful when you use the plugs, but ESPECIALLY with large 240 volt connections. The plugs are large and require a bit of effort to insert, making it necessary to wrap your hand around the plug and it is easy to accidentally touch the conductors when inserting or removing them. This same advice applies to all large sockets like electric ranges, RV plugs, large tools etc.

Metal braided hoses are much more resistant to bursting.

Plugged vents and hoses are a fire hazard.

This hot water heater has exhaust rollout. Improper flue design or inadequate air supply can cause combustion gasses to vent into the home. If your heater has these stains please have it checked out.

Dryers use a lot of power, and usually do not come with their power cords installed when you buy them. When hooking up a power cord, follow the manufacturers instructions, and be sure to have the proper strain relief fitting. Since dryers vibrate and can have sharp edges to the sheet metal enclosures, cords can short out, causing a potential fire or electrocution hazard.

Washing machine hoses
These hoses are under pressure all the time and can burst causing extensive water damage to the home. Since washers will jiggle when they operate the hoses can rub against the wall behind them. We always recommend the metal braided hoses for washers since they are much more burst resistant and less likely to be damaged by the movement of the appliance. Leave at least 4 inches of space behind the washer to prevent hoses from kinking or chafing and inspect them regularly. If you see any bulges, rust or any other damage, replace them right away.

Dryer vents and lint build up

It is recommended that you check and clean the dryer venting regularly. Use flexible metal pipe, not the foil or vinyl accordion type hoses, they are more likely to catch lint and have an increased risk of fire.
Read an article on cleaning dryer vents here.

Smoke detectors are important in laundry areas, since fires associated with dryers cause more then $80 million of damage a year. Be sure that dryers are properly vented outside and not leaking inside the home, attic or crawlspace as this moisture is a conducive condition for structural pests. If there is significant lint buildup inside, your dryer vent is likely leaking.

Fresh air/back drafting
When dryers run they exhaust a lot of air outside the home. This can produce a negative air pressure condition leading to a possible back-drafting of combustion gasses from furnaces, hot water heaters etc. This problem is especially true in modern energy efficient homes or confined spaces such as a closet. All homes with combustion appliances must have carbon monoxide detectors!
Read more about back-drafting hazards here.

GFCIs
When properly installed, GFCIs prevent two thirds of all serious electric shocks a year. All outlets with in 6 feet of water, (laundry, kitchens and bathrooms) in garages or outside should have GFCIs. They are cheap and easy to install and might save your life.
Read how install them here.

Explosion hazards
Both washers and dryers have electric motors and other components that can produce sparks capable of igniting flammable vapors or gasses. Laundry equipment are sometimes in garages where there may be gasoline, paint, solvents, propane etc. Always store these chemicals in their original, properly labeled air tight containers. If there is a spill, DO NOT use any electrical appliance or garage door openers until it is cleaned up and all vapors have dissipated.

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Private Well Maintaince

2009-04-20T18:52:00.000-07:00

Private wells provide drinking water for many people in western Washington, but most wells are not maintained properly. It is recommended that they have and annual check up for bacteria or anytime there is a change in odor, appearance or taste. Water tests may include coliform bacteria, nitrates, iron, manganese, water hardness, sulfides and others. If there is a significant change in these levels, there may be an indication of changes in the water table. The well's flow should be checked to determine output, pump checks including amperage, voltage and proper grounding. Have the pressure tank and pressure switch checked too. The company performing these checks should provide you a detailed report on all conditions, recommendations and lab results. Be sure to keep this information in a safe place to provide ongoing information to monitor for any changes.

Don't put hoses onto mixing containers for pesticides, fertilizers or other chemicals as this can allow these chemicals to be drawn into your water supply. Use care when adding mulch or other ground covers always maintain 12 inches of clearance from the ground to the well head. Be careful with mowers and other yard equipment to prevent damaging your casing or cap. Keep snow, leaves or other debris from the area around the well. All these can lead to contamination.

Other tips for well owners include keeping hazardous materials away from your well such as gasoline, paints, thinners, and pesticides. Make sure your well is not located too close to buildings or septic systems. Keep your septic properly maintained by having your tank pumped regularly and drain field checked.

Well Shocking (from the state of Maine Dept of Health)
"Frequently, bacteria can be introduced during the well drilling process, installation of the pump system, subsequent servicing of the well pump, pipe repairs, storage tank replacement, or an inadequate well cap installation allowing vermin and insects access to the well casing. Any cause or causes for contamination should be fully investigated prior to shock chlorination, since contamination will likely reoccur if the cause is not addressed." Read the entire article here.

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Earthquake Preparedness and Survival

2009-03-20T12:08:00.000-07:00

In our area, regular earthquakes are a part of life. You should be prepared as it will certainly happen again.

Utility Shut Offs -

Everyone should know where and how to turn off all utilities to your home. We will often see these shutoff locations inaccessible. Never block a gas meter shutoff valve, water shutoff or breaker panel! In an emergency you must be able to shut these off or risk fire, explosion, electrocution, serious water damage or even death.

Water -

The main shutoff for most homes is sometimes hard to find. Since these valves are rarely used they will often leak when you turn them off. For these reasons, we recommend that you locate your main shutoff at your water meter. This valve is usually under a cover near the sidewalk or at the edge of the road. Open this cover and look for the valve, you will need a tool to turn this off. There are a couple types of valves, so it is important to look at yours and make sure you have the proper tool to turn off the water. Most of then can be turned with an adjustable wrench, similar to the valve on a gas line. Others may require a special tool available at your local hardware store. If you are on a well, familiarize yourself with the equipment in your pump house so you know how to turn off the pump and water valves.

Natural Gas -

These shutoffs are located at the meter. It is best to have a wrench that is tethered to the meter, so you know it is there when you need it. If you have propane the tanks have shut off valves at the lines connecting them to the home or appliance. If you ever smell a strong odor of gas (rotten egg smell) shut off the gas immediately, turn off the electricity (this can prevent explosions or fire) and open all the doors and windows. Call 911 for the fire department and the gas company to locate and isolate the gas leak.

Electricity -

You should know how to turn off the power to your home. Usually there is a main shutoff in the breaker panel or at the power meter. Occasionally there is no single main shutoff, in this case, turn off every breaker in the panel. If your home has a fuse box there will sometimes be a shut off above or beside the box. If there is no shut off, then unscrew each fuse and lay them out in the same pattern as they were in the box. This is so
you can replace each fuse in the proper location and not mix up the amperages of the circuits. Most older homes also have 2 or more pull out fuse holders, so remove these also.

Hot Water Heaters -

When there are earthquakes, water heaters will often fall over. All water heaters should be anchored to walls. These straps should be heavy steel, not flimsy 'plumbing straps'. A standard water heater can easily weigh over 400 pounds and plumbing straps are inadequate. Most people only worry about gas powered hot water heaters, but we are concerned with all of them. An electric heater that falls over will cause a huge leaking mess not to mention the power connected is typically 20 amps 240 volts! This can easily kill anyone that comes in contact with an electrified puddle.

Structural Concerns -

Many homes suffer significant damage when they shift off their foundations or the walls that attach the home to the foundations buckle. While it is no guarantee, proper anchor bolts, shear walls, and positive post to beam connections make a home much more resistant to the movement during an earthquake.

Anchor bolts -

Most modern homes have these installed when the concrete is poured. They also can be retrofitted after construction.

Another option is to have seismic anchors attached to the sill plates and bolted into the foundation. This type of retrofit can not only strengthen the home, but may make you eligible for a reduction in homeowners earthquake insurance rates.

Pony Walls -

Also known as cripple walls are susceptible to collapse in an earthquake. The lateral movement when the earth starts moving can cause this kind of failure.

Most homes only have diagonal wood bracing, and this is often not strong enough to resist collapse. Shear walls have plywood nailed to them as in the diagram below.

Post to Beam Connections, Joist Hangers -

A positive connection where post meet beams and where beam meet each other is usually a very simple step, it is an inexpensive fix and all connections should have them. Many structures and decks are lacking joist hangers, again, a simple and cheap fix that can save your life and help your home survive an earthquake.

More Information and Videos -

See this pamphlet provided by the city of San Leandro for more expert information on earthquake retrofits

These videos by Mark Benthien-Director of Communication, Education, and Outreach, Southern California Earthquake Center have some great tips on earthquake preparedness and survival.

Also see videos on:

Surviving an Earthquake and Earthquake Kits

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Polybutylene Plumbing Problems - Lawsuit and Settlement

2009-03-02T11:27:00.000-08:00

If you have Polybutylene plumbing in your home, time to file a claim is running out.

Polybutylene is a semi-flexible plastic plumbing installed in homes since the late '70s.

It has had a much higher then average rate of failure leading to lawsuits. Shell Oil had settled for more the $1 billion while not admitting any legal liability. This settlement may applies to more then 6 million homes with the faulty plumbing. The time line for inclusion in the settlement is running out, and you must file a claim with in 17 years of installation and before May 1st, 2009.

Read more about this settlement and qualifying for payments here.

Polybutylene plumbing was installed in homes and as the supply from the water company. It was not used for drains or vents. In homes it is usually a gray (some are silver or black) with plastic or metal inserted fittings.

These fittings are clamped with metal crimp rings over the outside the pipe, usually made of brass, copper or aluminum. It is these inserted fittings to pipe connections that most often fail.

PVC, CPVC PEX and Aquapex are other forms of plastic pipes that are not a part of this settlement, and have much higher reliability.

If a manufactured home has had it's polybutylene pipes replaced in Washington State, you may find this tag on the end of the building from the Department of Labor and Industries.

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Recovering after a flood

2009-01-18T09:49:00.000-08:00

A flood can cause a lot of damage to homes and their contents. Wells are also vulnerable to flood damage too. With the recent floods in our area, we have put together several articles to help keep you and your family safe.

Wells:

If surface water makes it into a well it can often cause serious health problems. There are many sources of contamination of flood waters and frequently contain bactria, protozoa, and viruses ( E.coli, Giardia and hepatitis for example). If your well is flooded or you notice changes in taste, color or smell of your water, it is recommended that you immediately start boiling it when you use it for drinking, cooking, brushing your teeth and cleaning any wounds. The water should be brought to a vigorous rolling boil for at least 1 minute to assure all pathogens are killed.

The well and plumbing system must be disinfected. This includes all filters, pressure regulating tanks, water heaters, water softeners and supply lines. The recommended procedure for water supply system decontamination is detailed here: http://www.hipspro.com/pubs/flooding_well-decontamination.pdf

The only sure way to verify that well water is safe is to have it tested. Chlorine is effective against harmful organisms, but floods can also contain dangerous chemicals. Your local health department can give you instructions on properly testing your water.

Crawlspaces:

Water in walls crawl spaces and attics will lead to serious problems with structural pests, such as carpenter ants, moisture ants, termites and wood boring beetles. In the northwest, all common structural pests are dependent on high water content, so the most important thing is remove the saturated materials as soon as possible and strong ventilation to dry it out. Crawlspaces must be pumped out as soon as possible, and we recommend using a fan inside to keep the air moving (this will help dry it out). A 2nd fan should be used to pull the damp air out of the space. Do not blow air into the crawlspace, this will force water vapor and odor into the rest of the home. Install it at the crawlspace opening or at a vent. Assure that the vents are clear of debris and if the access hatch is open, cover it with a stiff wire screen to keep animals out of the space. Read more tips here: http://www.hipspro.com/pubs/floodmoisture.pdf

Carpets:

Usually carpets and rugs must be thrown away with few specific exceptions. If the flooding is from clean water, as in the case of a frozen supply lines or rain water are easier to treat then the gray or black water contamination. Gray water problems include dishwashers, washing machines, punctured waterbeds, or broken aquariums. Black water is the most contaminated with organisms capable of producing disease. Common sources of this contamination are flooding from seawater, rivers, or streams. If left untreated for more then 48 hours, gray water can turn into black water and the clean up is much harder.

Remove and dispose of carpet saturated with “black water”. Always remove and dispose of carpet padding saturated with “gray” or “black water”. Carpet padding can be restored if it has been wet from clean water less than 48 hours and only part of the padding in a room is wet. Read the rest of these guidelines here: http://www.hipspro.com/pubs/rugs.pdf

Furniture:

Wood furniture comes in many grades and materials. Most antiques are made with solid wood and can often be saved. Furniture that is made with particle board of MDF (medium density fiberboard) get ruined very quickly. The extent of the damage, cost of replacement and cost of restoration help determine if an article should be saved. The most important thing is to dry it out as soon as possible since minor damage can become severe in just a few days and making salvage impossible. Read tips on saving furniture here: http://www.hipspro.com/pubs/furniture.pdf

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Home energy savings tips

2008-12-26T01:00:00.000-08:00

Saving energy in your home will not only save you money, but will also help the environment by reducing the need for hydro-electric dams and fossil fuels used to produce electricity. These steps will pay for themselves again and again for years to come.

The average home looses up to 20% of its heating due to drafts. Doors, windows, outlets, and switches are all common areas of heat loss. Most heating bills in our area can be $2000 a season or more meaning those drafts can cost you $400 a year! That buys a lot of weather stripping and caulking. Most doors and windows are easy to check with just your hand, if you feel the cold air coming in then you are loosing heat. Outlets and switches also can be drafty, if you feel cool air around them, consider foam gaskets under the cover plates. Old single pane windows can be made more efficient by installing storm windows or inside magnetic panels to reduce drafts. Read more on caulk and weather stripping here.

During the day, let the sunlight in to reduce lighting costs, but at sunset, closing curtains will also help reduce heat loss. Consider cellular blinds as they are more energy efficient then blinds and shutters.

Turning down your thermostat by one degree can save over 5 percent on your heating bill. Consider electronic thermostats with built in timers to reduce energy use when you are at work or sleeping. You can still awaken to a warm house and not use energy when you don't need to. Avoid heating rooms you don't use by closing heat vents or turning down individual room thermostats.

Have your heating system checked regularly to assure that it is running at top efficiency, and always keep air filters clean. A tiny change in a furnace or boiler systems combustion can dramatically lower your heating bills and will often pay for the service call in energy savings.

Water heaters use a lot of energy and should have the thermostats set to 120 degrees. Not only will this save energy, but dramatically reduces the risk of scalding injuries. If it is set higher, you will be using a lot of cold water to bring the temperature down. Gas how water heaters have their thermostat on the exterior and are easy to set, electric heaters are under cover and should be set by a professional. Read more about energy efficient water heating here.

Take showers instead of filling a bath and save about 50% of the energy. Low flow shower heads save both water and energy. If you have a hot tub, make sure the cavity under the tub is insulated and you use a insulated cover. Turn down the heat when you are not going to use it for an extended time.

Lighting is one of the easiest ways to save energy and money. Compact florescent lights (CFLs) are direct replacements for standard incandescent light bulbs. The 100 watt equivalent lights can last 13 times longer and use less then 1/4th the energy. When you buy and install a 6 pack of CFLs, it is like putting $550 in your pocket! They have styles now for replacing bathroom globes and outdoor flood lights. But remember they can't be used with dimmers, and must be disposed of properly. Most hardware stores will take the old lights back.

Computers use significant energy, especially those that are left on all the time. Remember a screensaver saves no energy, but hibernation does, or better yet power them off and save more. Modern LCD displays use 1/3 the energy then a old CRT. Same with most laptops, they are more energy efficient then a standard desktop.

TV's use power all the time, even when they are turned 'off'. Most entertainment devices with remotes (DVD players, VCRs, stereo equipment also use power in standby mode. Unplugging them when you are not using them will save energy.

Keep freezers free from excessive ice buildup. A defrosted freezer is more efficient. Open the doors a minimum amount of time to keep the cold inside. Every time a refrigerator door is opened, the compressor had to re-chill the contents.

Laundry is another big power user, so wash full loads. Use the coolest water temperature that will do the job, and always rinse with cold water. The washing machine itself doesn't use nearly the energy as the water heater does to wash in warm or hot water. The clothes dryer is one of the highest energy use appliance in most homes. Use a clothes line and you will save significant energy.

Look for the "Energy Star" label on all household appliances, and buy the ones with the lowest energy use.

Home without adequate insulation should upgraded. The first place is in the attic, it is cheap and easy to add. The payback in energy savings is very fast since 1/3rd of heat lost is through the roof. If you walls are un-insulated we recommend adding it there too. It will pay you back for as long as you own the home and increase the re-sale value.

Examples of Where to Insulate

1. In unfinished attic spaces, insulate between and over the floor joists to seal off living spaces below.
1A attic access door
2. In finished attic rooms with or without dormer,
insulate …
2A between the studs of "knee" walls;
2B between the studs and rafters of exterior walls and roof;
2C ceilings with cold spaces above;
2D extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows.
3. All exterior walls, including …
3A walls between living spaces and unheated garages, shed roofs, or storage areas;
3B foundation walls above ground level;
3C foundation walls in heated basements, full wall either interior or exterior.
4. Floors above cold spaces, such as vented craw spaces and unheated garages. Also insulate …
4A any portion of the floor in a room that is cantilevered beyond the exterior wall below;
4B slab floors built directly on the ground;
4C as an alternative to floor insulation, foundation walls of un-vented crawl spaces;
4D extend insulation into joist space to reduce air flows.
5. Band joists.
6. Replacement or storm windows and caulk and seal around all windows and doors.

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Outdoor electrical safety tips for holiday lighting

2008-12-01T13:02:00.000-08:00

Use timers to control your lighting to save more energy. This chart dramatically contrasts the old style bulbs with modern LCD technology lighting using as little as 1.15% of the energy of the old style lighting.

Another consideration is heat. Never install old style bulbs on a real tree. Think of string of 100, 10 watt lights, that is 1000 watts light and heat. You would never put a 1000 watt heater on a tree for obvious reasons, and these strings are nearly the equivalent of doing just that.

Be careful when hanging lights. Loose wiring is more easily damaged by movement from trees and wind. Never use standard staples, as they can cut into insulation and cause a short or shock hazard. Best to use insulated clips to hang lighting.

GFCI protected outlets are recommended for all outdoor electrical use. They dramatically reduce the risk of electrical shocks and electrocutions.

Use only UL approved exterior grade power cords outside with proper ground (3 prong connector). Never run cords through doorways, windows where they could get damaged or be a trip hazard. Keep all plugs and connectors off the ground, away from puddles and snow.

If you blow fuses or trip breakers, reduce the load on that circuit. Never change the amperage if a blown fuse, if a 15 amp fuse blows, reduce the load on that circuit and replace with the exact same type 15 amp fuse. The wiring in the home is designed to only carry the current of the fuse. That blown fuse likely prevented the wiring from overheating and possible fire.

If you see flickering lights, sparks, warm switches, plugs, or outlets, or dimming lights, there is a potential dangerous problem that could cause an electrical fire.

As always use extreme care on ladders, make sure they have a good footing and are steady. Never touch your exterior power drop! Any contact with a poorly insulated drop will kill you, an aluminum ladder is an excellent electrical conductor.

Read more about holiday lighting safety here from Washington State University Extension Energy Program and the Northwest Energy Efficiency Alliance.

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Getting Your Home Ready For Winter

2008-10-28T09:34:00.000-07:00

With winter on its way a few routine steps will help keep you warm and comfortable, and save you money.

If you have an oil furnace, have it checked annually. A very small adjustment can make a huge difference in your heating bill, not to mention reducing the pollution from poorly adjusted burners. By the way, with oil prices at unusually low prices, it might be a good time to fill up the tank before these prices go back up.

Gas furnaces should be checked regularly too. Our recommendations is to have the 1st service at 5 years, again at 10, then every year thereafter. Be sure to keep up on changing your furnace filters. If you have a electric fan forced wall unit (like a cadet) be sure to properly clean them. We have a copy of the instructions here.

Chimneys, If you heat with wood, have your flue swept and checked every year. Examine wood stoves for cracked or missing fire bricks, poor door seals, and loose or damaged flue pipes.

All non frost free hose bibs should be insulated to protect them from freezing. Be sure to disconnect hoses! A hose will cause a frost free hose bib to freeze when the water in the hose freezes.

Clean gutters and check the downspouts assuring that they discharge away from the building, the further the better

Look at all trees, and other plants. They should be trimmed back so they cant touch the home. Any contact is a natural path for insects, rodents, and can contribute to structural pests.

Walk around your home and look at the bottom row of siding. Ideally there should be 6 inches of concrete below the bottom row of siding. If soil or bark is piled too high there is a much greater chance of problems with termites ants or beetles damaging the home.

Look at every window and door. Check weather stripping, repair as necessary. Look at every threshold and door sweep, if there are gaps, you will be loosing heat. Caulk all gaps in siding, trim, utility holes, etc.

If it is safe to do so, remove any leaves and other debris from the roof. Use great care to not remove the granules on a aspalt roof. (DO NOT PRESSURE WASH) Ideally on a dry day, carefully use a leaf blower, debris in valleys and behind chimney's can cause water to back up and cause leaks.

Check your smoke detectors. If you have an attached garage, live in multi-family, or have gas, oil or wood burning appliances, you must have a carbon monoxide detector!! All homes should have them, since there is no way to tell if you have a problem with CO. Most people never know they have a problem untill someone is make sick or they are killed. Take any warning from a carbon monoxide detector very seriously, and call the fire department.

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Is your deck safe?

2008-07-14T13:24:00.000-07:00

There have been 800 injuries and 20 deaths in the last 10 years directly connected to unsafe decks and collapses. We are not only trained home inspectors, but as builders of decks, we understand the importance of proper deck construction.

We see substandard decks all the time, with dangerous railings, improper attachments, missing joist hangers and poorly built stairs. Safety rails on decks should be 36" high and have no openings greater then 4". The building codes for these rails have changes dramatically over the years. When I first started building decks, the pickets could be spaced up to 9" apart. This can pose a significant hazard for children, so older decks should be retrofitted with proper railings. All handrails along stair cases should between 30" and 34" above the stair nose and on at least one side of the side of close stair openings or both sides of open stairs.

The today show did a report on deck safety. See the video here

Make sure you deck is thoroughly inspected, your life may depend on it!

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Window Fall Hazards

2008-06-20T16:56:00.000-07:00

Always keep small children away from open windows

Every summer there are a spike of fall injuries of children when we open windows up to let fresh air in. Window screens have warnings on then informing consumers that the they are not to be considered fall safety devices. Most screens will come dislodged or tear with only moderate pressure. The view and fresh air are very appealing to young children.

The Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates that there have been 3200 children treated in hospitals and 25 deaths in the last year from window falls. These accidents are easy to prevent.

All windows should have safety stops or barriers to prevent children from falling out of windows. These should be easily removable by older kids and adults in case of fire. Any window that opens and children have access to should be considered a falling hazard. No window that is accessible to children should open more then 4".

Many parents make the faulty assumption that a window screen will prevent this kind of accident.

Where a window can be opened from the top and bottom, always open only the top. It is much safer to open the top of a double hung window.

Never keep furniture near a window that a child can climb on and gain access to a window.

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Attic Ventilation

2008-03-25T12:35:00.000-07:00

Why are vents important?
All homes should have attic ventilation, but most do not have enough. The temperature in the attic should be close to the outside air temperature but almost never is. I have personally recorded up to 145 degrees on a sunny summer day. Inadequate vents will contribute to wood decay, break down roofing prematurely, and will often lead to bio-growth (mold, mildew and fungus) Bio-growth over time may cause significant structural damage and potential health problems. If you look at a modern home, there are lots of roof vents. Modern building codes call for 1 square foot of ventilation for every 150 to 300 square feet of attic floor space, depending on vapor barrier and other construction factors. That means for a typical 1500 sq foot home, there should be 5 to 10 square feet of ventilation. Almost no older homes have this and therefore their attics are hot, humid and are a ready breeding ground for bio-growth and structural pests.

Adding Vents
We are continually recommending better ventilation in attics, and if you are re-roofing a home, it is usually a good idea to add several. They are cheap, and easy to install when re roofing, and will make the roofing and framing last longer. Roofers will sometimes complain at the time because they often don't want to stop the roofing project long enough to cut new holes in the roof but insist on them anyway. As with all contractors, time is money and to set up a saw, cut the hole and properly weave in the vent takes a few minutes more. It is worth every penny!

Powered vent options
One excellent idea to add better ventilation for you attic is to consider a powered vent. Electric vents can move a lot more air and moisture from your home then passive ventilation. These come in several types, and most require professional installation. All powered vents will help reduce excess heat in the summer, potentially saving money in AC bills and making the home more comfortable. One of the newer and exciting energy saving alternatives are the solar powered vents. These have the advantages of the powered vents, but require no electricity from the home to run, and therefore no electrical permits to install. They can be thermostatically controlled, and will run when ever the sun is shinning. They are more expensive but since they use no power from the home, can be easier to install and they save electricity too. Read more about solar powered vent options here.

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Interior Air Quality Problems and Solutions

2008-01-10T17:17:00.000-08:00

Builders have made great strides to make our homes energy efficient. This has resulted in new problems with the quality of the air. We typically spend 12 or more hours a day in our homes resulting in potentially long term exposure to unhealthy air. Some homes have from 2 to 100 times more polluted air than outside. This pollution can cause serious health problems. Dust, smoke, pet dander, mold, mildew, and dust mites are all very common in the typical home. We have researched this problem and found several tips to improve air quality.

Fan forced furnaces:
If your home is equipped with a fan forced furnace, have the fan running continuously. This will draw air through the filters capturing harmful pollutants. Keep the filters clean, replacing them every 60 to 90 days. High efficiency air filters will capture up to 30 time more pollutants then standard filters. The spun organic/fiberglass filters are the poorest choice, so avoid the reusable washable types. If you do not have a fan forced furnace, you might consider using a portable air cleaner. The units have a huge range in costs and effectiveness, read more about portable air filter from the American Lung Association here.

Kitchens:
Keep the kitchen vented when cooking, especially if you are cooking with gas appliances. Combustion gases and burning foods can cause serious health problems. All gas cooking appliances require fresh air to properly operate and prevent accumulation of carbon monoxide. Use the exhaust fans and/or keep a kitchen window open while cooking.

Wood heating sources:
If you have a fireplace or wood stove, it is recommended that a window be kept open slightly to provide adequate combustion air, especially in a newer tightly constructed home. Keep firewood stored outside. Green firewood can release mold spores, which can contaminate your home. It is estimated that 1/3 of all Americans fail to do this making it one of the major contributors to indoor air quality problems.

Bioaerosols:
Excess moisture in the air can cause bioaerosols to proliferate. Mold, mildew, fungus and dust mites are all organisms that can cause health problems. Reducing the humidity/moisture sources and air handling equipment maintenance are important steps to controlling these problems.

Bathrooms:
Bathrooms are one common source of moisture, especially showers. Always use bath exhaust fans if present or open windows to remove excess moisture. Make sure bath fans are vented outside the home and not into attics.

Inspect vents and keep them clean:
Often crawlspace vents can get clogged with landscaping materials, weeds, grass clippings etc. Ventilation is very important to keeping crawlspace moisture low. Beside health issues, excessive moisture in crawlspaces is a conducive condition to wood destroying organisms. If you have combustion appliances, check the air intake vents to assure they are not clogged. Hot water heaters, furnaces, gas stoves etc are possible sources of carbon monoxide without a good supply of fresh air. The American Lung Association recommends annual service of all combustion appliances. At a minimum install carbon monoxide detectors on each level of your home.

"Bioaerosols are extremely small living organisms or fragments of living things suspended in the air. Dust mites, molds, fungi, spores, pollen, bacteria, viruses, amoebas, fragments of plant materials, and human and pet dander (skin which has been shed) are some examples. They cannot be seen without a magnifying glass or microscope." (1)

Sources
(1) Dr. Sandra A. Zaslow, Extension District Director, and Dr. Mary Beth
Genter, Extension Leader, Toxicology - North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, publication FCS-360-5

American Lung Association

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Recalls, Class Action Lawsuits

2007-12-31T16:38:00.000-08:00

Some recall information on common home components

These are some of the items that we see regularly and has come to the attention of government agencies as defective and or dangerous.

Gas furnace lawsuit
Cadet heater Information
LP Siding

90+ Effeciency Furnace Class Action Lawsuit Suzanne came accross this information on a class action lawsuit involving several of the most common gas furnaces around

United States District Court, Western District of Washington

If you own or owned a Carrier, Bryant, Payne, or Day & Night high efficiency gas furnace made after January 1, 1989, you could get benefits from a class action settlement.

This is the official Court website for the Grays Harbor Adventist Christian School v. Carrier Corporation class action settlement. The Court will hold a hearing on April 22, 2008 to decide whether to approve the settlement. Those included in the class action, together called a "Class," have legal rights and options, such as submitting a claim form to ask for a payment, excluding themselves from the settlement, objecting to it, or asking to speak at the hearing. The deadline for exclusions and objections is March 21, 2008. You may fill out and submit a Claim Form online or mail it postmarked no later than August 1, 2008 to the address on the form. Click here to see a list of models that are included in the settlement.

Click the links below to obtain a Claim Form or read the Court-ordered Notices, and other materials including a list of the furnace models that are included in the settlement, the Settlement Agreement, and the Preliminary Approval Order. Certain documents are in Adobe Acrobat PDF format. If your computer is not already configured with the free Acrobat software to view and print these documents, you may get Acrobat by clicking the logo below.

Furnace Models

Carrier 58SX* 58DXC 58MXB 58MVP 58SXA 58MSA 58UVB 58MVB 58SXC 58MCA 58SXB* 58MTA 58DX* 58MXA 58VUA 58MTB 58DXA 58MCB 58VCA 58MVC Bryant/Payne/Day & Night 398AAW* 398AAV 398BAZ 490AAV 398AAZ 350MAV 320AAZ PG9MAA 399AAW* 340AAV 321AAZ PG9MAB 399AAZ 350AAV 355MAV 355CAV 399AAV 351DAS 355AAV 340MAV 345MAV 355BAV 352MAV 398BAW* 352AAV

*Note: On model numbers 58SX, 58DX, 58SXB, 398AAW, 399AAW, and 398BAW only those with serial numbers 89 or higher in the third and fourth position (i.e. xx89xxxxxx) are included in the settlement.

Summary Notice Detailed Notice Claim Form Furnace Models Find a Bryant Dealer

Find a Carrier Dealer Settlement Agreement Preliminary Approval Order Notificación en Español

If you have any questions, please call 1-866-517-2490.

Cadet Electric Fan Forced Heaters Recall List

Some of the older Cadet electric heaters are known as a fire safety hazard. In 1999 they settled with the CPSC over several problematic models.

See our identification matrix with pictures here

The Cadet models in question are: series FW (FW-051, FW-101, FW-122, FW-202, and FW-751), 1978 and 1987; series FX (FX-051, FX-052, FX-071, FX-072, FX-101, FX-102, FX-122, FX-151, FX-152, FX-202, and FX-242), 1985 and 1994; series LX (LX-242, LX-302, LX-402, and LX-482), 1985 and 1994; series TK (TK-051, TK-071, TK-072, TK-101, TK-102, TK-151, and TK-152), 1984 and 1998; series ZA (ZA-051, ZA-052, ZA-071, ZA-072, ZA-101, ZA-102, ZA-122, ZA-151, ZA-152, ZA-202, and ZA-242), 1985 and 1999; series Z (Z-072, Z-101, Z-102, Z-151, Z-152, Z-202,and Z-208), 1993 and 1999

Encore brand name, including series RX (RX-072, RX-101, RX-102, RX-151,RX-152, RX-202, and RX-242), 1985 and 1994; series RLX (RLX-302, RLX-402, and RLX-482) 1985 and 1994; series RK (RK-101 and RK-102), 1984 and 1998; series RA (RA-101, RA-102, RA-151, RA-152, and RA-202), 1985 and 1994; series ZC (ZC-072, ZC-101, ZC-102, ZC-151, ZC-152, ZC-202, and ZC-208), 1993 and 1999.

For each of these heaters, the variants signified by the suffix T (with thermostat), W (white color), and TW (with thermostat and white color) found after the model number are -3- included. These heaters shall hereinafter be collectively referred to as “the Heaters." Cadet manufactured approximately 1,950,000 of the Heaters for sale to consumers principally in the States of California, Idaho, Montana, Oregon, and Washington.... Read the entire article here:

LP Siding

LP is one of the most common problematic siding products we see. The most important thing you can do if you have this is diligent maintenance (paint, caulk, trim landscaping materials). Since it is made of pressed and glued wood chips, there are lots of end grains that will readily absorb water if it is not properly sealed. Read this article on proper maintenance your LP.

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Housing Safety for the Elderly

2007-11-26T18:23:00.000-08:00

Housing Safety for the Elderly
As we age our senses are not as sharp and the loss of the sense of vision, smell, hearing and touch can result in injury. With the frequent bone loss of older individuals, the risks from falling are magnified. A simple fall can result in a serious incapacitation injury that can lead to loss of independence. These tips while intended for elderly safety apply to all people, especially children and pets.

Security
Check doors and locks for easy operation and security. All doors should have secure deadbolts that do not require a key from the inside. We recommend 180 degree peepholes at the appropriate height and good porch lighting. You might consider alarm systems for peace of mind.

Phones
Put emergency contact information, doctors, hospitals, pharmacy, etc next to the phone. Make sure the address is listed along with family contact information. Remember that most cordless phones will not work during a power outage, so always have at least one non powered corded phone.

Safety Equipment
Test all smoke alarms, and if they have them, change the batteries on a regular cycle like daylight savings time change. If the residence has any combustion appliances (furnace, hot water, fireplace, stove, ect.) or and attached garage we also recommend carbon monoxide detectors. We recommend that you locate any safety equipment your building may have, like fire extinguishers, fire escapes and central alarms. Consider installing extinguishers inside the home and near any barbeques and garages. Read more Fire Safety Tips from the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

Kitchens
Check the lighting assuring that it is adequate to clearly see cooking and working areas. Check location of lighting switches, they should be easily assessible near the doorways. Hot water can severely scald, so assure the water temperature is set no higher then 120 degrees. Single conrtol faucets are less likely to cause burns. The flooring should be easily cleaned, not slippery, and any rugs or pads should have non skid backing to help prevent falls. Controls for the range and oven should be in front or beside, not in back where you would have to reach over a burner. All kitchens should have GFCI protected outlets within 6 feet of water. These should be tested regularly to assure they are working. A circuit properly protected by a GFCI can prevent 2/3 of all electrocutions.

Halls and Rooms
Inspect all stairs and halls for trip hazards at carpet/flooring edges, thresholds, cords, etc. Look around for sharp edges on furniture, trim, shelving and heaters that could be hazardous in case of a fall. Check for good lighting and switch locations.

Stairs
Since so many injuries occur on stairs, we have dedicated a web page to stair safety. You will find more complete safety info there. Some of the tips include..
1) Continuous handrails:
Consider installing secure hand raills on both sides of steps. They should be at the correct height, easy to grasp and solid construction.
2) Vertical balustrades:
These are to assure there is no opening greater then 4"
3) Even Treads, to prevent trips
4) Good Lighting, with light switches at top and bottom of stairs.
5) Closed risers, these are much less likely to cause a trip.
6) Clear approaches

Read the rest of our stair tips here:

Sources:
Home Safety Checklist for the Elderly
North Carolina State University, North Carolina A&T State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture

Smart Housing Safety and Security Booklet
Department of Housing, GPO Box 690,Brisbane Q 4001

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2007-09-17T12:08:00.000-07:00

Fall Maintenance Tips for Your Home

With the coming colder and wetter weather it is time to think about maintenance on the home

Always use extreme care when using ladders or working on roofs, especially around power lines. If you are unsure in any way consult a professional to maintain theses items.

Gutters & Downspouts
It seems obvious that if your gutter systems are not working properly water will likely damage some part of the structure. Make sure all gutters are cleaned usually 2 times a year, more depending on the number of trees dropping debris, etc. They should be all properly attached, no sagging low spots, with proper downspouts & splash blocks or other suitable drains. Water should discharge away from the home. Look around the home for areas of splash-up. This is caused by water running off the roof or gutter and causing mud to splash up onto the house.

Roofs
Examine all penetrations (fasteners, utility holes, skylights, vents, etc) on your roof. Since tar lasts only a few years, we recommend that it be re tarred on regular intervals, depending on the products conditions. Check for cracking and shrinkage of material, this can be a potential leak point..

Cleaning
Some homes have trees that drop extensive debris on them requiring regular maintenance. Debris piled around skylights, chimneys, valleys and drains can cause water to backup under roofing and flashings to cause leaks.

Chimneys
Inspect the crown, flashing, masonry, cap, etc. Have wood fired appliance chimneys examined and cleaned regularly, especially if you burn a lot.

Caulking
Go around the entire exterior with a critical eye on all caulked areas. Fill and paint as necessary to maintain maximum protection from water and cold. A dry, tight house is far less likely to have problems with structural pests. Common areas that frequently need more caulk include: doors, windows,utility holes, gaps in siding, corners, vents, nail holes, fascias, soffitts, trim, etc.

Carefully note the condition the various painted surfaces on your structure. Look at each type of surface, wood, concrete, decking, rails, etc. Most homes paint condition will vary widely depending on the exposure to weather, landscaping damage, and different types of materials. All materials painted surfaces will fail at different rates. NOTE: Always use paintable caulk on the exterior of building. Silicone based caulks cannot be painted/stained.

Vinyl siding
Wash off moss, dirt and examine for cracks or any missing or damaged pieces that will require repair.

Decks
Most decks fail at attachment to the house. The ledger or rim should be bolted to the home. Check decking for any rot, loose rails, weak stairs, raised nail heads, posts, beams, joists and footings. Examine the paint/stain condition. Clean off any moss or slimy surfaces to help prevent slips. Spantex decking surfaces only last a few years without ongoing maintenance. Regular re- application of the color- top coat is recommended. Make sure all drains on impervious covered decks are clean and working. Even the best made deck will leak if it doesn't have working drains.

Landscaping
It is recommended that all landscaping be trimmed away from the building. Nearly all homes we look at have at least some landscaping problems. Some kinds are more destructive then others, be especially careful with climbing vines. This time of year trees are filling our gutters faster than we can keep up. While it is beautiful, it can easily cause damage to your home in several ways. One often overlooked problem is that the plants make natural pathways for all kinds of household and structural pests.

Home Inspections of Puget Sound

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Carpenter Ants, Part 2 in outr series on Structural Pests in the Northwest

2007-08-22T13:45:00.000-07:00

The Carpenter ant is one of the most destructive structural pests in the northwest United States.

Identification
Carpenter Ants have a evenly curved "thoracic dorsum", this is the back of the insect. Then most common member of this family is Modoc, it is black with reddish colored legs, but color is not a good indicator as some types have red parts. These are often found moving along foraging lines about 1 foot apart Trees, fences and firewood are all regular paths for that they are known to use.

Damage in the Home
Carpenter ants will damage homes by nesting in them. The will dig out tunnels to in wood expand their living spaces and can lead to structural damage. They infestation in the home usually is a satellite colony, with the main one with in a hundred years or more in a stump or other decayed wood. When colonies start establish them selves in homes, they may start small, few hundred members but can grow to several tens of thousands. There can be 20 or more satellite colonies.

Making your Home Resistant to Carpenter Ants
Stumps, fire wood:
Take care when storing firewood. This is a favorite nesting location for Carpenter ants. Always keep wood elevated and covered from the rain. A wet pile of firewood in contact with the ground is an ideal infestation location. Stumps left in the yard are common locations for colonies.
Landscaping:
Never allow plants to make contact with the home. Trees and shrubs provide natural paths for insects and are frequently foraging sites.
Wood/Soil contact:
It is a conducive condition for pests when wood touches soil. Wood should rest on concrete or other suitable support, and when it is in direct contact with the ground pressure treated lumber is recommended. Beauty bark or other landscaping is often piled too high next to homes. this can lead to rot/decay and lead to a carpenter ant infestation.
Ventilation:
Crawlspaces and attics need ventilation to keep the moisture content low. It the ventilation is not adequate, there will be biogrowth (mold, mildew or fungus) and create conditions that encourage infestations. Vapor barriers are recommended in crawlspaces. This will help keep the framing under the home dry and provide a barrier to discourage pests.
Points of Entry:
Check for hole in the exterior of the home. Where pipes and electrical wires enter. doors, windows, foundation cracks, siding and trim are all common locations for ants. Sealing these with caulk or other suitable materials with discourage entry.

Read more about Carpenter ants their control here:
WSU Extension Bulletin 0818.CARPENTER ANTS: THEIR BIOLOGY AND CONTROL, L. D. Hansen.
Carpenter Ant Update, PCT Magazine April 2002, L. D. Hansen.

Home Inspections of Puget Sound

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Zinsco Electric Panel Hazards

2007-08-21T14:14:00.000-07:00

The Zinsco panel is one of the most common brands of dangerous electrical equipment we see. This company made many different types. Most have this silver foil label with the Zinsco name, others are called Magnetrip, others have the Zinsco name stamped in the enclosure. Never buy without an inspection, it could save your life. Really! See Cheryl's story here

Zinsco electrical equipment is known to be hazardous for several reasons. There is a problem with the bus bar and breaker contact points arcing and overheating. Overheating the electrical contacts on breakers can destroy the integrity of this important safety item. Many reputably electricians won't service these anymore, and replacement is strongly recommended. They have been manufactured with aluminum bus bars as a clip on the breaker that make poor contact.

Arcing has been observed in where these breakers contact the bus. This can result in the overheating and incapacitation of the breakers. We observed these breakers have their cases blow out and leave soot on the inside of the enclosures. Note the extensive soot inside this panel and inside the cover, this is a sure sign of overheating and is an extreme hazard.

Sylvania/Zinsco
These panels were also in later years manufactured by Sylvania. This is the Zinsco design and has the same reputation. The Sylvania like the Zinsco had the blue and foil label inside and colorful red, blue and green breakers. With the same flawed breaker and bus bar connection design. These panels are ones that we recommend replacement.

We recommend that anyone with one of these panels have them replaced as soon as possible.

Home Inspections of Puget Sound

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Moisture Ants, The First in our series on Structural Pests in the Northwest

2007-08-06T19:12:00.000-07:00

The structural pests in the Northwest of greatest concern are all dependent on high moisture content in the wood.

This moisture can come from rain, soil, water supply lines and drains. All these possible sources need to be addressed or there will certainly be a problem. Around here, keep it dry and them pests will usually keep away. This is a picture from under a toilet. We checked it before we got in the crawlspace, and noted that it was loose. This nearly always leads to leaks and if not promptly addressed, wood decay. Such leaks are sometimes not so obvious especially if there is insulation and or wall-board installed.

This is frass, debris or excrement produced by insects. This piles were in regular intervals along the base of the homes exterior wall. After carefully looking at it, we determined that it was not sand and the regular intervals aligned perfectly with the floor joists. I removed some of the insulation that covered the rim on the outside of the building and I found moisture ants, lots of them and extensive damage to the structure. There were about 15 joists visible, and 15 neat piles of frass.

Every single joist we looked at was covered in these pesky pests at this end of the home. We took careful note of this area of the home and proceeded to explore the exterior to determine what were the contributing problems that causes this infestations.

"Most pest species are yellow; they can vary to a rather dark brown, from 3–5 mm long. These are monomorphic species having workers all the same size. Maxillary palpi are long and five-segmented. Colonies usually occur in decayed logs and stumps, but some may be found in soil" WSU Extension Bulletin 1382

Upon further investigation we noticed that the grade next to the home on this side was sloped the wrong way, trapping water next to the home. The gutters and downspouts were in poor condition, and there was other visible damage on the siding. The exterior of this home had been neglected for years, having plants touching the structure is several places, deck framing in poor condition, and need of paint and caulk Inside the crawlspace we found more frass, and bare earth.

All soil under homes should be covered with plastic. This vapor barrier will help control the moisture that can evaporate under the home and bringing up the moisture content up to the point of being susceptible to wood destroying organisms.

Never buy a home without a complete wood destroying organism report

Home Inspections of Puget Sound

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(FPE) Federal Pacific STAB-LOK Panels

2007-07-24T21:20:00.000-07:00

The Federal Pacific Electric Stab-Lok panel is known among Electricians and Home Inspectors as a serious safety hazard. We wanted you to know that this reputation is well founded and documented by industry professionals & government agencies.

To get the information necessary to write this article, we have done extensive research and made a Freedom Of Information Act request for the scientific documentation from the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). It took a couple of months to get a reply, and I was surprised to see the stack of information (a pproximately 300 pages ) documenting the hazards with Federal Pacific equipment.

The failures documented were mostly concerning the FPE breakers failure to ‘trip’ at their rated amperage. Well documented CPSC studies show there is a failure to trip up to 60% of the time. This is a very high rate of failure, and is an unacceptable risk for any home owner.

In many cases the breakers failed to properly turn off the power during an over current condition, often resulting in overheating and complete failure of the breaker to work at all. After an over current/over heating cycle, the breakers would frequently not turn off even if the breaker was manually flipped. This occurred in many breakers tested, purchased at several different sources, and different rated amperages.

There are also reports of problems with the bus and panels arcing resulting in fires. Do not accept replacement breakers, as there are significant hazards with the bus connections also

This poses a serious electric shock and fire hazard.

The CPSC reports conclusion stated "A significant number of the breakers tested are defective and do not provide the required level of protection..." "..the breakers themselves may develop hazardous behavior in the form of severe overheating or self-incapacitation in the on condition. The high failure rate of these breakers indicates serious deficiencies in the FPE quality control procedures, their product testing, and the UL follow-up testing program. The system of checks and balances which is supposed to prevent products with these levels of defect from ever being installed in electrical systems has, in this instance failed."

If you have a Federal Pacific panel, have it replaced as soon as possible!

Home Inspections of Puget Sound

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Periodic Maintenance Tips for Your Home

2007-06-03T15:10:00.000-07:00

A well maintained home will last longer, be a healthier place to live, maximizes the resale value, minimizes repairs costs, provides a more comfortable and safe living space. This article is a useful tool to help you maintain one of your most valuable assets. Set aside 2% or 3% a year of the homes value for the major repair expenses like water heaters, roofs, painting, floors, heating/cooling systems, gutter repairs etc.

Several times a year, during a hard rain, get an umbrella and see how your home and yard fairs in a downpour. Are the gutters working properly? Are the downspouts leaking or disconnected? Are they discharging water in working drains or splash blocks and carrying the water away from the structure? Is there water running towards the home or puddling next to the house? Is the grading of the soil proper to move excess water away from the home? Are there sidewalks or landscaping edging holding water next to the home? These are all major causes of water in crawlspaces and basements. Check basements for leaks and/or if possible, check crawlspaces to assure they are not accumulating excess water. Read more about keeping water out of your home here.

If possible, get into crawlspaces checking for moisture and other problems. This can be a dirty job but is probably the most important inspection you can do. If you are unable or unwilling to do this, I strongly recommend that you hire a professional to do it for you every couple of years or when you suspect a problem. If you detect any unusual odors, musty smells etc, this could indicate leaks in plumbing or water in crawlspaces.

The insulation in this crawl space is upside down and falling off the joists

Use a good quality dust mask and a strong flashlight. Take a camera with you so you can document any problems to show contractors what issues you may have. Look for all water lines and drains, carefully check around toilets, tubs and sinks for stains, leaks or rotten wood. Make sure the vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) is complete. There should be no bare earth, wood or paper debris.

Make sure vents are not blocked by landscaping or insulation. Examine the insulation to assure that it is not falling down and installed properly. If you can see a insulation that has a vapor barrier (paper or plastic sheeting) it must be facing the heated side. I can't tell you how many crawlspaces I go in that have the insulation upside down. If there is
duct work, check to see that it is properly connected and insulated. Check the walls for cracks and footings under posts for settlement. Check for any sign of pests (rodents, droppings, ants, termites etc)

Everyone should check the condition of their home, landscaping and retaining walls that affect the structure twice a year. Some of these items include the following:

Caulk and paint. I can't stress enough how important this is. Check the caulking around all doors, windows, trim, and utility holes. Check all windows for broken glass, cracks, broken seals or 'fogging', locking mechanisms and screens Check all doors for proper locks, weather stripping, thresholds and door sweeps. If you can see any daylight around a door you are going to pay for lost heat and in the long run that will pay for the proper
weatherization.

Check the stain or paint on decking surfaces, railings, steps etc., and examine the framing, posts and beams.

Trim all plants away from the building, decks, roofs and power lines.

Check plumbing fixtures and drains. Look for leaks under sinks and in vanities/cabinets.

Note trip hazards on drives, walks and patios. If they are getting worse, try to figure out why. Is the ground under them slipping, sinking or are there tree roots causing the problem? You should consider repairing them before someone trips and gets hurt.

This roof has very soft sheeting
and extensive moss damage

Clean out gutters and check downspouts. Use extreme caution around overhead electrical wires, ladders and roofs! Do not take any unnecessary chances here please. If you are not comfortable doing this, have a professional do it for you. This is a good time to re-tar any patches on the roof. Tar lasts for a relatively short time and must be re applied regularly to prevent leaks. Check the roof for:

Gutter attachments, downspout mounts, splash block placements
Fasteners that penetrate the roof, re-apply tar as needed
Missing shingles, conditions of valleys and ridges,
flashings, check condition of tar dots on the nails
Attic and plumbing vents and fasteners. Tar as needed
Flashings around chimneys
Soft sheeting, roof warping or 'wow' of the roofing planes

Proper ventilation is critical. This is an extreme example of bio growth due to excessive moisture

Inspect the attic, looking for :

Disconnected exhaust vents, heating
duct work
Moisture stains, mold/mildew/fungus growths, address excessive moisture
problems promptly
Broken framing or
delaminated sheeting
Blocked vents, broken vent screens and any signs of birds or pests

Check all stairs for

Good lighting
Bouncy or poor framing, loose treads, etc.
Hand rails should be solid, easy to grip, proper height (about 32" above stair nose) with no openings greater then 4"

Fireplaces

If you have a
wood burning insert, stove or fireplace and use it regularly have the flue examined and cleaned once a year
Examine the chimney crown and fire brick for excessive cracking
Check the flashing and
counterflashing to see they are in good order
Be sure you have a carbon monoxide detector installed

Furnace/AC

Replace filters, if you have one, clean electrostatic air cleaners
Oil furnaces should be 'tuned up' by a professional every year or 2
Turn off the power and vacuum electric wall heaters, the dust
buildup can cause sparks and burning debris to be ejected upon start up
Check A/C hose insulation. Keep landscaping and debris away from exterior heat pumps and A/C compressors

Laundry

Look behind dryers and check for lint accumulation or kinked/crushed vent hoses. Repair or replace as needed
Outside vents, clean lint accumulations
Check washing machine hoses, some manufacturers recommend replacing them every few years.

This hot water heater has exhaust rollout. Improper flue design or
inadequate air supply can cause
combustion gasses to vent into
the home. If your heater has these
stains please have it checked out.
Read more in our Home Inspector
Newsletter

Hot water heaters

Look for leaks at the supply lines, shutoff valves, over
pressure/temperature valves
If in an unheated space, insulating the tank will save you money
If a gas unit, check for exhaust
rollout stains and earthquake straps. See the photo to the left
Smell around the gas supply lines and thermostat to check for leaks.

Electrical checks

Check power cords
Extension cords, discard/properly repair any that are worn of have broken insulation
Test all GFCIs and if your electrical panel has them arc fault interrupters. These fail regularly and are very important safety devices
If any breakers or fuses need regular resetting/replacement, have a electrician check them out

Smoke and CO Detectors

Check all smoke detectors, replacing batteries regularly. Most homes have smoke detectors but many have batteries that are dead. If you have an attached garage or any appliances, furnaces, fireplaces etc. that use natural gas, oil, wood, kerosene or any combustible material, please get a carbon monoxide detector. They are not the same thing as a smoke detector! Some units are combo smoke and CO detectors, but not usually. We can usually smell smoke but there is often no way to detect carbon monoxide until a hazardous condition exists in the home. Read an article we wrote about carbon monoxide hazards here

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Precision Tools for the Best Inspections

2007-05-10T08:37:00.000-07:00

In our effort to provide the best inspection services available, we have invested thousands of dollars in the best computers, tools and other diagnostic equipment. In conjunction with our team inspection concept, our customers get the highest quality inspections. Give us a call and you will see how dedicated professional inspectors, with the best tools and training available will provide you the information you need to make decisions on one of the most significant investments, your home.

Computerized reports - Our reports are easy to read and published to the Internet. See a sample here. This allows easy sharing of the information with sellers or contractors. We tried many reporting systems and found them incomplete, hard to understand and lacking in useful information. After extensive research and months of development, we created our own complete home inspection reporting system. Ours is fully web interactive, with extensive linking to the Internet for further explanation of the issues. You wont find it anywhere else!

Digital photography - We take pictures of all critical elements during your inspection and are experts in the fine art of digital photography. By using proper lighting, composing the subject and editing on-site (cropping, brightness, contrast, fill light and annotating) we make the most out of this valuable tool. You know what they say, a picture can be worth 1000 words, especially for buyers that are out of town or otherwise can't be at the inspection personally. All our work is published to the web in minutes after the inspection on a customized web page for each customer. See a sample photo web page here.

Mobile office equipment - We bring a mobile Internet connection to every job. This not only allows us to publish your reports in minutes, but gives us the ability to deliver further documentation to our customers on what we find. One example of this was a home that had a problematic electrical panel. When we told the buyers and seller about this, they were both quite upset. The buyer demanded something be done about the panel and the seller refused (he had built the house himself and never had a problem with it). Since we had the ability to print the documentation on that particular panel on-site, we defused this contentious issue on the spot, and the seller made the recommended safety repair concession to the buyer.

High speed color printer - Our blazing fast printer can print our entire 38 page report in under 3 minutes in full color!

Wood Destroying Pest ID Lab - We bring our lab equipment to every inspection, including microscope, insect collection tools, magnifying glasses, test tubes, identification charts/diagrams, and sample insects for comparisons. We make every effort to identify inspects on-site and provide our customers with advice in dealing with them. We are members of Washington Pest Control Association and routinely send samples of insects and insect damage to WSU entomologists for identification verification.

Specialty Inspection Equipment-Better Tools Mean Better Inspections
We use precise diagnostic tools to detect problems and advise on how to correct them. Without investing in the best tools, you are not giving the client the best inspections. Some of ours include:
Fluke Digital Multi-meter instead of an outlet tester, a multi-meter gives a much better indication of your electrical systems condition.
Flammable Gas Detector to locate natural gas, propane and other dangerous gasses.
Moisture Meter detects moisture under floors and behind walls.
Laser thermometer - for checking heating, cooling, refrigeration, and looking for faulty electrical systems.

Fluke Digital Multi-Meter
Most inspectors use simple outlet testers. While there are useful tools, (we have them too) our multi-meter can tell you so much more. This tool costs more, a lot more (70 times the cost of our outlet testers) and it is worth every penny!

We test the voltage of every panel that we inspect. It is also possible to detect many other conditions such as bad breakers, loose connections, over or under voltage supplies to name a few. This kind of thorough check of your electrical system is a standard part of our inspection service. Most inspectors don't have the equipment or training to perform these tests, but we do.

This is just one of the value added checks we perform. When we do find a problem, JJ's background in actually installing electrical panels, wiring, heaters, outlets, appliances and lighting circuits mean that we can pass you advice that most inspectors can't. In the event of a problem, we have a great electrical contractor that we have been working with for 25 years, and happy to recommend them to our customers.

Features of our fluke meter include: True RMS voltage and current measurements, 0.09% basic accuracy, 6000 count resolution, Digital display with analog bargraph and backlight, Manual and automatic ranging, Display Hold and Auto Hold, Frequency and capacitance measurements, Resistance, continuity and diode measurements, Min-max-average recording, Smoothing mode allows filtering of rapidly changing inputs, Closed case calibration through front panel, Ergonomic case with integrated protective holster, EN61010-1 CAT III 1000V / CAT IV 600V, Measures twice as fast as other multi-meters

Moisture Meter
This tool is used to assess the relative moisture level of building materials such as wood, plaster, sheetrock, masonry, concrete and behind coverings like ceramic tile and vinyl floors. It is great for checking relative moisture conditions of building components in walls and floors. When we see a suspect stain on a ceiling or wall we can verify if it is old or still has high moisture content. This tool gives our customers extra peace of mind and security in our inspection process.

Features include: Detects moisture directly in materials and below wall and floor coverings such as tile, wood and vinyl. - Reset reading for sensitivity adjustment - Not adversely affected by surface moisture such as condensation. - Dual Display LCD and LED. - Color changing LED’s to show moisture condition.

TIF Combustible Gas Detector
Whenever we have a gas appliance, it is checked for leaks. This is extremely sensitive, and we only report leaks that are also verified by smelling them also. This is very expensive tool, and not all inspectors use them. We do, and make every effort to keep you and your family safe from the real risks associated with gas leak hazards.

Features include:
Ultimate sensitivity 5 – 50ppm Checks for explosive gas in places where electrical measurement has to be taken - Warns against dangerous explosive gas - Instantaneous response - Used in almost any situation where combustible gasses, vapor or residues need to be found - Automatic warm up - Adjustable sensitivity - Audible “Geiger counter” type signal

Some of the detectable compounds are:
Acetylene, Iso-Butane, Methane, Ethane, Propane, Ethylene, Hydrogen, Methyl Ether, Vinyl Chloride, Methyl Chloride, Hydrogen Sulfide, Acetone, Methanol, Ammonia, Gasoline, Chlorine

Home Inspections of Puget Sound

Warranty Inspections Help Insure Quality in Your New Home

2007-04-06T08:48:00.000-07:00

Most of the problems we find in home are hidden or ones not recognized by the home
owner. This home buyer had a leak on the roof covered under their warranty. The builder repaired the leaking valley but..

Complete Warranty repairs?

..He NEVER FINISHED! The siding, trim, flashing and stone work at the corner weren't completed. I was shocked to see this repair, and the owner was too. To make matters worse, during the repair, they removed the downspout. The only way to see this work was to climb up on the 2nd story roof, she had no idea that her home was left in this condition. This is all too common, making shoddy warranty repairs especially in areas where a homeowner will not see the work since the cost is coming our of the builders pocket. She was told the repairs were all done, do they look complete to you? If this were not repaired soon, the warranty would have expired and there would be significant damage to the home in the first driving rainstorm. The builder agreed to make the repairs right away.

Sub contractors skipping the details

In this picture you can see that water has been splashing up on the side of the house. and eroding the soil. The architect knew that a gutter and downspout was needed here. Notice that white cover at the corner? That is the drain cap for the downspout that was never installed. The plumber put it in the drain but
the gutter contractor never installed one! Everyone recognized that there was a need for a proper gutter and downspout. This sub was in such a hurry that it was missed. The result? Erosion, water splashing up on the side of the house and a conducive condition for structural pests. You would think that buying a house for more then $600,000 would come with complete gutters as designed, but not this time!

Don't let your new home warranty expire without a thorough inspection!

Home Inspections of Puget Sound

Back Drafting: Carbon Monoxide Warnings

2007-04-01T10:27:00.000-07:00

During a power outage caused by the windstorms in December 2006, a gas generator killed an entire family in Burien Washington. Carbon monoxide kills nearly 150 Americans a year. This statistic drove us to further research this topic. There are many possible sources of carbon monoxide in a home, and most people have no idea of the hazards they can pose.

We recommend anyone that uses gas, oil or wood appliances and fireplaces should heed these warnings to protect themselves and their families from this potentially fatal hazard. Furnaces, boilers, hot water heaters, fireplaces, gas ranges, gas grills, charcoal barbecues, cars, generators and gas powered tools are all common sources of carbon monoxide.

This hot water heater has exhaust rollout. Improper flue design or inadequate air supply can cause combustion
gasses to vent into the home. If your heater has these stains please have it checked out.

Controlling combustion appliance exhaust leaks.
When exhaust from appliances leak into homes the results can be very serious, even deadly. All types of heating systems with the exception of electric heat have the possibility of back drafting
gasses. Hot water heater, fireplaces, clothes dryers, gasoline powered vehicles and tools all produce toxic exhaust. Venting of these are crucial for removing hazardous
gasses from your home, and if improperly installed or maintained serious hazards can result.

Dryers, kitchen and bathroom fans, and window fans all force air out of the house and can be a source of "back drafting hazards". Care should be taken when fans are exhausting the house. These can cause a negative air pressure pulling
gasses backwards through their flue dumping combustion gasses in the home. With wood stoves or fireplaces, smoke being drawn into the living space is obvious. The evidence from other appliances is not always easy to detect. This problem has been more evident in today's tighter constructed homes. Older houses typically had more air leaks providing a fresh air supply for the fans. Carbon monoxide has no color or odor and therefore, we recommend carbon monoxide detectors in all homes.

In addition to carbon monoxide, other combustion
gasses can be a hazard. Carbon dioxide, nitrogen oxides and others are often present. In the case of nitrogen oxide exposure, there can be damage to lungs, exacerbate colds and cause respiratory illnesses. High concentrations of carbon dioxide will displace the vital oxygen supply in the home. Your best protection is to install carbon monoxide detectors that are approved by Underwriters Laboratories. Understand how they work, some are "hard wired" others are battery powered. As with smoke detectors, all battery powered detectors must be on a regular maintenance schedule changing the batteries and tested yearly. Remember, unlike smoke detectors, when a carbon monoxide detector goes off there is rarely any other evidence of the hazard. Don't make the deadly mistake in assuming that the unit is malfunctioning because there is no odor or smoke.

Carbon monoxide safety checklist.

Professional regular maintenance is the key. Common problems to check for include breaches in the heat exchanger, condensation in flues and proper exhaust drafting at startup.
All these appliance should have their burners checked to assure proper venting and combustion. A well adjusted burner produces much less carbon monoxide and provides more efficient heat.
In the case of an oil fired furnace this is likely to pay for itself. Oil burners require more precise adjustments and if properly maintained the efficiency will be optimal, saving precious fuel.
Make sure all combustion appliances have good supply of fresh air. When air supply is restricted they are much more likely to produce high levels of carbon monoxide and possibly have back drafting issues.
Modern sealed units draw fresh combustion air from outside. Consider replacing older style appliances with those that have their own dedicated air supply.
NEVER run cars, mowers, generators or other gas powered devices in homes or garages.
NEVER use gas grills or charcoal barbecues indoors.
Install carbon monoxide detectors - smoke alarms are not the same thing. Test them and change the batteries yearly. We recommend battery powered ones since many carbon monoxide deaths occur during power outages when people are most likely to attempt to keep homes warm with alternate heat sources.

Home Inspections of Puget Sound

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Common Electrical Safety Hazards

2007-03-29T13:28:00.000-07:00

There can be real potential safety risks in the home, and real estate is the biggest investment most people make in their lives.

Cheryl's Story

We did an inspection of a condominium in for Cheryl N of Redmond WA. When we checked the electrical we saw several problems.

Serious safety issues noted on her summary were:

If you have a Zinsco or Federal Pacific panel, we recommend it be checked by an Electrician

Zinsco electrical panel - see safety information on panel at www.hipspro.com.

Aluminum branch circuit wiring - more information at Consumer Product Safety commission.

Crack on main feed lug holder to panel. Possibly was over tightened.

Missing smoke detector in bedroom.

We also verbally recommended replacement of the Zinsco panel and repair the aluminum wiring and noted it further in her report. See Cheryl's actual electrical detail report page here.

We got a call 35 days after that inspection, the recommended repairs didn't get addressed immediately. She had an electrical fire in an outlet. Fortunately, she was forewarned and was alert to the potential hazard. She immediately recognized a dangerous situation and called the fire department. Luckily she was home and awake at the time of the fire and the damage was limited to the outlet or this could have been very serious.

She worked with a reputable electrician we recommend. JJ has known the guys at C&R Electric for almost 40 years. When their electrician first got to work on this job, the breaker box was malfunctioning to the point of heating up the case. The components inside must have been very hot to make the whole enclosure so warm. He diagnosed the problem to be an overloaded circuit which caused the outlet to catch fire. Electrical current had exceeded the capacity of the outlet and a faulty Zinsco panel never turned off the power.

It is our opinion, when you take into account both the aluminum wiring and the Zinsco panel, there is a significant hazard. This combined with the risk multiplier of a condominium with many units likely wired the same way causes our greatest concern. We hope this moves the homeowners association to investigate and repair this condition in all the units.

Here is excerpt from the US CPSC article Aluminum Wire Problems and Solutions

Home Inspections of Puget Sound

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New Home Inspections

2007-03-28T23:12:00.000-07:00

Some buyers think that a city building inspection is all you need for a new home. In a perfect world all codes and best practices would be followed & there would be no need for independent inspections. In my 25 years of building fine homes, municipal inspectors rarely look at many of the most significant items in the home. How could they when most spend no more than 10 minutes onsite!

General contractors will often cut corners knowing that municipal inspections are rarely complete, and push their subcontractors to get it done as fast as possible. This is especially true in large developments where workers jump from site to site, missing the critical details, or taking the time to alert others of problems they find.

The following pictures were all items found in a brand new home we inspected before the owner took possession. This had passed all its municipal inspections, but clearly the building inspector didn't check any of these problems.

During this inspection we noted low air flow to the heat registers.

Disconnected duct work

This is the main heating duct for the entire home. This was blowing precious warm air into the crawlspace. I doubt that heating contractor left this duct work in this condition. Surely he was not the last worker in this space. This buyer was glad we caught it, his gas bill would have been astronomical trying to heat the home by warming the crawlspace.

Incomplete Insulation

In this picture, not only is the plumbing not insulated, there is exposed sub floor. We see this kind of problem all too often. Workmanship is everything when it comes to installing insulation, and we check all visible areas to assure it is properly installed.

Incomplete Vapor Barrier and Wood Debris

Vapor barriers (plastic sheeting) are critical to moisture control in the crawl space. During this inspection we noticed saturated, heavy clay soil. Water does not percolate like it does in sandy soil. In this crawlspace, all of the soil was damp. The lack of a complete vapor barrier and left over wood construction debris are conducive conditions for structural pests,( ie. beetles, ants or termites.) Removing wood debris and proper vapor barriers are simple inexpensive steps, yet crucial to preserve the integrity of
homes.

Home Inspections of Puget Sound