Interior Air Quality Problems and Solutions

Builders have made great strides to make our homes energy efficient. This has resulted in new problems with the quality of the air. We typically spend 12 or more hours a day in our homes resulting in potentially long term exposure to unhealthy air. Some homes have from 2 to 100 times more polluted air than outside. This pollution can cause serious health problems. Dust, smoke, pet dander, mold, mildew, and dust mites are all very common in the typical home. We have researched this problem and found several tips to improve air quality. Fan forced furnaces: If your home is equipped with a fan forced furnace, have the fan running continuously. This will draw air through the filters capturing harmful pollutants. Keep the filters clean, replacing them every 60 to 90 days. High efficiency air filters will capture up to 30 time more pollutants then standard filters. The spun organic/fiberglass filters are the poorest choice, so avoid the reusable washable types. If you do not have a fan forced furnace, you might consider using a portable air cleaner. The units have a huge range in costs and effectiveness, read more about portable air filter from the American Lung Association here. Kitchens: Keep the kitchen vented when cooking, especially if you are cooking with gas appliances. Combustion gases and burning foods can cause serious health problems. All gas cooking appliances require fresh air to properly operate and prevent accumulation of carbon monoxide. Use the exhaust fans and/or keep a kitchen window open while cooking. Wood heating sources: If you have a fireplace or wood stove, it is recommended that a window be kept open slightly to provide adequate combustion air, especially in a newer tightly constructed home. Keep firewood stored outside. Green firewood can release mold spores, which can contaminate your home. It is estimated that 1/3 of all Americans fail to do this making it one of the major contributors to indoor air quality problems. Bioaerosols: Excess moisture in the air can cause bioaerosols to proliferate. Mold, mildew, fungus and dust mites are all organisms that can cause health problems. Reducing the humidity/moisture sources and air handling equipment maintenance are important steps to controlling these problems. Bathrooms: Bathrooms are one common source of moisture, especially showers. Always use bath exhaust fans if present or open windows to remove excess moisture. Make sure bath fans are vented outside the home and not into attics. Inspect vents and keep them clean: Often crawlspace vents can get clogged with landscaping materials, weeds, grass clippings etc. Ventilation is very important to keeping crawlspace moisture low. Beside health issues, excessive moisture in crawlspaces is a conducive condition to wood destroying organisms. If you have combustion appliances, check the air intake vents to assure they are not clogged. Hot water heaters, furnaces, gas stoves etc are possible sources of carbon monoxide without a good supply of fresh air. The American Lung Association recommends annual service of all combustion appliances. At a minimum install carbon monoxide detectors on each level of your home. "Bioaerosols are extremely small living organisms or fragments of living things suspended in the air. Dust mites, molds, fungi, spores, pollen, bacteria, viruses, amoebas, fragments of plant materials, and human and pet dander (skin which has been shed) are some examples. They cannot be seen without a magnifying glass or microscope." (1) Sources (1) Dr. Sandra A. Zaslow, Extension District Director, and Dr. Mary Beth Genter, Extension Leader, Toxicology - North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service, publication FCS-360-5 American Lung Association   If you find this information useful, don't keep us a secret! List us on any of your favorite networking / bookmarking sites

Recalls, Class Action Lawsuits

Some recall information on common home components These are some of the items that we see regularly and has come to the attention of government agencies as defective and or dangerous. Gas furnace lawsuit Cadet heater Information LP Siding 90+ Effeciency Furnace Class Action Lawsuit Suzanne came accross this information on a class action lawsuit involving several of the most common gas furnaces around United States District Court, Western District of Washington If you own or owned a Carrier, Bryant, Payne, or Day & Night high efficiency gas furnace made after January 1, 1989, you could get benefits from a class action settlement. This is the official Court website for the Grays Harbor Adventist Christian School v. Carrier Corporation class action settlement. The Court will hold a hearing on April 22, 2008 to decide whether to approve the settlement. Those included in the class action, together called a "Class," have legal rights and options, such as submitting a claim form to ask for a payment, excluding themselves from the settlement, objecting to it, or asking to speak at the hearing. The deadline for exclusions and objections is March 21, 2008. You may fill out and submit a Claim Form online or mail it postmarked no later than August 1, 2008 to the address on the form. Click here to see a list of models that are included in the settlement. Click the links below to obtain a Claim Form or read the Court-ordered Notices, and other materials including a list of the furnace models that are included in the settlement, the Settlement Agreement, and the Preliminary Approval Order. Certain documents are in Adobe Acrobat PDF format. If your computer is not already configured with the free Acrobat software to view and print these documents, you may get Acrobat by clicking the logo below. Furnace Models Carrier 58SX* 58DXC 58MXB 58MVP 58SXA 58MSA 58UVB 58MVB 58SXC 58MCA 58SXB* 58MTA 58DX* 58MXA 58VUA 58MTB 58DXA 58MCB 58VCA 58MVC Bryant/Payne/Day & Night 398AAW* 398AAV 398BAZ 490AAV 398AAZ 350MAV 320AAZ PG9MAA 399AAW* 340AAV 321AAZ PG9MAB 399AAZ 350AAV 355MAV 355CAV 399AAV 351DAS 355AAV 340MAV 345MAV 355BAV 352MAV 398BAW* 352AAV *Note: On model numbers 58SX, 58DX, 58SXB, 398AAW, 399AAW, and 398BAW only those with serial numbers 89 or higher in the third and fourth position (i.e. xx89xxxxxx) are included in the settlement. Summary Notice Detailed Notice Claim Form Furnace Models Find a Bryant Dealer Find a Carrier Dealer Settlement Agreement Preliminary Approval Order Notificación en Español If you have any questions, please call 1-866-517-2490. Cadet Electric Fan Forced Heaters Recall List Some of the older Cadet electric heaters are known as a fire safety hazard. In 1999 they settled with the CPSC over several problematic models. See our identification matrix with pictures here The Cadet models in question are: series FW (FW-051, FW-101, FW-122, FW-202, and FW-751), 1978 and 1987; series FX (FX-051, FX-052, FX-071, FX-072, FX-101, FX-102, FX-122, FX-151, FX-152, FX-202, and FX-242), 1985 and 1994; series LX (LX-242, LX-302, LX-402, and LX-482), 1985 and 1994; series TK (TK-051, TK-071, TK-072, TK-101, TK-102, TK-151, and TK-152), 1984 and 1998; series ZA (ZA-051, ZA-052, ZA-071, ZA-072, ZA-101, ZA-102, ZA-122, ZA-151, ZA-152, ZA-202, and ZA-242), 1985 and 1999; series Z (Z-072, Z-101, Z-102, Z-151, Z-152, Z-202,and Z-208), 1993 and 1999 Encore brand name, including series RX (RX-072, RX-101, RX-102, RX-151,RX-152, RX-202, and RX-242), 1985 and 1994; series RLX (RLX-302, RLX-402, and RLX-482) 1985 and 1994; series RK (RK-101 and RK-102), 1984 and 1998; series RA (RA-101, RA-102, RA-151, RA-152, and RA-202), 1985 and 1994; series ZC (ZC-072, ZC-101, ZC-102, ZC-151, ZC-152, ZC-202, and ZC-208), 1993 and 1999. For each of these heaters, the variants signified by the suffix T (with thermostat), W (white color), and TW (with thermostat and white color) found after the model number are -3- included. These heaters shall hereinafter be collectively referred to as “the Heaters." Cadet manufactured approximately 1,950,000 of the Heaters for sale to consumers principally in the States of California, Idaho, Montana, Oregon, and Washington.... Read the entire article here: LP Siding LP is one of the most common problematic siding products we see. The most important thing you can do if you have this is diligent maintenance (paint, caulk, trim landscaping materials). Since it is made of pressed and glued wood chips, there are lots of end grains that will readily absorb water if it is not properly sealed. Read this article on proper maintenance your LP. If you find this information useful, don't keep us a secret! List us on any of your favorite networking / bookmarking sites

Housing Safety for the Elderly

Housing Safety for the Elderly
As we age our senses are not as sharp and the loss of the sense of vision, smell, hearing and touch can result in injury. With the frequent bone loss of older individuals, the risks from falling are magnified. A simple fall can result in a serious incapacitation injury that can lead to loss of independence. These tips while intended for elderly safety apply to all people, especially children and pets.

Security
Check doors and locks for easy operation and security. All doors should have secure deadbolts that do not require a key from the inside. We recommend 180 degree peepholes at the appropriate height and good porch lighting. You might consider alarm systems for peace of mind.

Phones
Put emergency contact information, doctors, hospitals, pharmacy, etc next to the phone. Make sure the address is listed along with family contact information. Remember that most cordless phones will not work during a power outage, so always have at least one non powered corded phone.

Safety Equipment
Test all smoke alarms, and if they have them, change the batteries on a regular cycle like daylight savings time change. If the residence has any combustion appliances (furnace, hot water, fireplace, stove, ect.) or and attached garage we also recommend carbon monoxide detectors. We recommend that you locate any safety equipment your building may have, like fire extinguishers, fire escapes and central alarms. Consider installing extinguishers inside the home and near any barbeques and garages. Read more Fire Safety Tips from the Consumer Product Safety Commission.

Kitchens
Check the lighting assuring that it is adequate to clearly see cooking and working areas. Check location of lighting switches, they should be easily assessible near the doorways. Hot water can severely scald, so assure the water temperature is set no higher then 120 degrees. Single conrtol faucets are less likely to cause burns. The flooring should be easily cleaned, not slippery, and any rugs or pads should have non skid backing to help prevent falls. Controls for the range and oven should be in front or beside, not in back where you would have to reach over a burner. All kitchens should have GFCI protected outlets within 6 feet of water. These should be tested regularly to assure they are working. A circuit properly protected by a GFCI can prevent 2/3 of all electrocutions.

Halls and Rooms
Inspect all stairs and halls for trip hazards at carpet/flooring edges, thresholds, cords, etc. Look around for sharp edges on furniture, trim, shelving and heaters that could be hazardous in case of a fall. Check for good lighting and switch locations.

Stairs
Since so many injuries occur on stairs, we have dedicated a web page to stair safety. You will find more complete safety info there. Some of the tips include..
1) Continuous handrails:
Consider installing secure hand raills on both sides of steps. They should be at the correct height, easy to grasp and solid construction.
2) Vertical balustrades:
These are to assure there is no opening greater then 4"
3) Even Treads, to prevent trips
4) Good Lighting, with light switches at top and bottom of stairs.
5) Closed risers, these are much less likely to cause a trip.
6) Clear approaches

Read the rest of our stair tips here:

Sources:
Home Safety Checklist for the Elderly
North Carolina State University, North Carolina A&T State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture

Smart Housing Safety and Security Booklet
Department of Housing, GPO Box 690,Brisbane Q 4001

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Fall Maintenance Tips for Your Home

With the coming colder and wetter weather it is time to think about maintenance on the home

Always use extreme care when using ladders or working on roofs, especially around power lines. If you are unsure in any way consult a professional to maintain theses items.

Gutters & Downspouts
It seems obvious that if your gutter systems are not working properly water will likely damage some part of the structure. Make sure all gutters are cleaned usually 2 times a year, more depending on the number of trees dropping debris, etc. They should be all properly attached, no sagging low spots, with proper downspouts & splash blocks or other suitable drains. Water should discharge away from the home. Look around the home for areas of splash-up. This is caused by water running off the roof or gutter and causing mud to splash up onto the house.

Roofs
Examine all penetrations (fasteners, utility holes, skylights, vents, etc) on your roof. Since tar lasts only a few years, we recommend that it be re tarred on regular intervals, depending on the products conditions. Check for cracking and shrinkage of material, this can be a potential leak point..

Cleaning
Some homes have trees that drop extensive debris on them requiring regular maintenance. Debris piled around skylights, chimneys, valleys and drains can cause water to backup under roofing and flashings to cause leaks.

Chimneys
Inspect the crown, flashing, masonry, cap, etc. Have wood fired appliance chimneys examined and cleaned regularly, especially if you burn a lot.

Caulking
Go around the entire exterior with a critical eye on all caulked areas. Fill and paint as necessary to maintain maximum protection from water and cold. A dry, tight house is far less likely to have problems with structural pests. Common areas that frequently need more caulk include: doors, windows,utility holes, gaps in siding, corners, vents, nail holes, fascias, soffitts, trim, etc.

Carefully note the condition the various painted surfaces on your structure. Look at each type of surface, wood, concrete, decking, rails, etc. Most homes paint condition will vary widely depending on the exposure to weather, landscaping damage, and different types of materials. All materials painted surfaces will fail at different rates. NOTE: Always use paintable caulk on the exterior of building. Silicone based caulks cannot be painted/stained.

Vinyl siding
Wash off moss, dirt and examine for cracks or any missing or damaged pieces that will require repair.

Decks
Most decks fail at attachment to the house. The ledger or rim should be bolted to the home. Check decking for any rot, loose rails, weak stairs, raised nail heads, posts, beams, joists and footings. Examine the paint/stain condition. Clean off any moss or slimy surfaces to help prevent slips. Spantex decking surfaces only last a few years without ongoing maintenance. Regular re- application of the color- top coat is recommended. Make sure all drains on impervious covered decks are clean and working. Even the best made deck will leak if it doesn't have working drains.

Landscaping
It is recommended that all landscaping be trimmed away from the building. Nearly all homes we look at have at least some landscaping problems. Some kinds are more destructive then others, be especially careful with climbing vines. This time of year trees are filling our gutters faster than we can keep up. While it is beautiful, it can easily cause damage to your home in several ways. One often overlooked problem is that the plants make natural pathways for all kinds of household and structural pests.

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Carpenter Ants, Part 2 in outr series on Structural Pests in the Northwest

The Carpenter ant is one of the most destructive structural pests in the northwest United States.

Identification
Carpenter Ants have a evenly curved "thoracic dorsum", this is the back of the insect. Then most common member of this family is Modoc, it is black with reddish colored legs, but color is not a good indicator as some types have red parts. These are often found moving along foraging lines about 1 foot apart Trees, fences and firewood are all regular paths for that they are known to use.

Damage in the Home
Carpenter ants will damage homes by nesting in them. The will dig out tunnels to in wood expand their living spaces and can lead to structural damage. They infestation in the home usually is a satellite colony, with the main one with in a hundred years or more in a stump or other decayed wood. When colonies start establish them selves in homes, they may start small, few hundred members but can grow to several tens of thousands. There can be 20 or more satellite colonies.

Making your Home Resistant to Carpenter Ants
Stumps, fire wood:
Take care when storing firewood. This is a favorite nesting location for Carpenter ants. Always keep wood elevated and covered from the rain. A wet pile of firewood in contact with the ground is an ideal infestation location. Stumps left in the yard are common locations for colonies.
Landscaping:
Never allow plants to make contact with the home. Trees and shrubs provide natural paths for insects and are frequently foraging sites.
Wood/Soil contact:
It is a conducive condition for pests when wood touches soil. Wood should rest on concrete or other suitable support, and when it is in direct contact with the ground pressure treated lumber is recommended. Beauty bark or other landscaping is often piled too high next to homes. this can lead to rot/decay and lead to a carpenter ant infestation.
Ventilation:
Crawlspaces and attics need ventilation to keep the moisture content low. It the ventilation is not adequate, there will be biogrowth (mold, mildew or fungus) and create conditions that encourage infestations. Vapor barriers are recommended in crawlspaces. This will help keep the framing under the home dry and provide a barrier to discourage pests.
Points of Entry:
Check for hole in the exterior of the home. Where pipes and electrical wires enter. doors, windows, foundation cracks, siding and trim are all common locations for ants. Sealing these with caulk or other suitable materials with discourage entry.

Read more about Carpenter ants their control here:
WSU Extension Bulletin 0818.CARPENTER ANTS: THEIR BIOLOGY AND CONTROL, L. D. Hansen.
Carpenter Ant Update, PCT Magazine April 2002, L. D. Hansen.

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Zinsco Electric Panel Hazards

The Zinsco panel is one of the most common brands of dangerous electrical equipment we see. This company made many different types. Most have this silver foil label with the Zinsco name, others are called Magnetrip, others have the Zinsco name stamped in the enclosure. Never buy without an inspection, it could save your life. Really! See Cheryl's story here

Zinsco electrical equipment is known to be hazardous for several reasons. There is a problem with the bus bar and breaker contact points arcing and overheating. Overheating the electrical contacts on breakers can destroy the integrity of this important safety item. Many reputably electricians won't service these anymore, and replacement is strongly recommended. They have been manufactured with aluminum bus bars as a clip on the breaker that make poor contact.

Arcing has been observed in where these breakers contact the bus. This can result in the overheating and incapacitation of the breakers. We observed these breakers have their cases blow out and leave soot on the inside of the enclosures. Note the extensive soot inside this panel and inside the cover, this is a sure sign of overheating and is an extreme hazard.

Sylvania/Zinsco
These panels were also in later years manufactured by Sylvania. This is the Zinsco design and has the same reputation. The Sylvania like the Zinsco had the blue and foil label inside and colorful red, blue and green breakers. With the same flawed breaker and bus bar connection design. These panels are ones that we recommend replacement.

Read more about Zinsco panels on Google here.

We recommend that anyone with one of these panels have them replaced as soon as possible.

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Moisture Ants, The First in our series on Structural Pests in the Northwest

The structural pests in the Northwest of greatest concern are all dependent on high moisture content in the wood. This moisture can come from rain, soil, water supply lines and drains. All these possible sources need to be addressed or there will certainly be a problem. Around here, keep it dry and them pests will usually keep away. This is a picture from under a toilet. We checked it before we got in the crawlspace, and noted that it was loose. This nearly always leads to leaks and if not promptly addressed, wood decay. Such leaks are sometimes not so obvious especially if there is insulation and or wall-board installed. This is frass, debris or excrement produced by insects. This piles were in regular intervals along the base of the homes exterior wall. After carefully looking at it, we determined that it was not sand and the regular intervals aligned perfectly with the floor joists. I removed some of the insulation that covered the rim on the outside of the building and I found moisture ants, lots of them and extensive damage to the structure. There were about 15 joists visible, and 15 neat piles of frass. Every single joist we looked at was covered in these pesky pests at this end of the home. We took careful note of this area of the home and proceeded to explore the exterior to determine what were the contributing problems that causes this infestations. "Most pest species are yellow; they can vary to a rather dark brown, from 3–5 mm long. These are monomorphic species having workers all the same size. Maxillary palpi are long and five-segmented. Colonies usually occur in decayed logs and stumps, but some may be found in soil" WSU Extension Bulletin 1382 Upon further investigation we noticed that the grade next to the home on this side was sloped the wrong way, trapping water next to the home. The gutters and downspouts were in poor condition, and there was other visible damage on the siding. The exterior of this home had been neglected for years, having plants touching the structure is several places, deck framing in poor condition, and need of paint and caulk Inside the crawlspace we found more frass, and bare earth. All soil under homes should be covered with plastic. This vapor barrier will help control the moisture that can evaporate under the home and bringing up the moisture content up to the point of being susceptible to wood destroying organisms. Never buy a home without a complete wood destroying organism report Home Inspections of Puget Sound If you find this information useful, don't keep us a secret! List us on any of your favorite networking / bookmarking sites